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11
Q & A / Sunn 200s with Rivera Rockcrusher recording?
« Last post by Smoothwound on August 19, 2024, 11:33:49 pm »
Hello everyone,

I have read the threads on power attenuator and load boxes but still don't trust I understand it.

Basically I have moved my Sunn 200s into Hyde Street Studios in San Francisco and it's getting lots of love. As you can imagine, volume can't quite get past 4 or 5 without shaking the walls down, so i went ahead and purchased a Rivera Rockcrusher Recording to offer more tonal options. I know that Tube distortion at higher volumes is sometimes miagical. So I wanted to have the option.

https://www.rivera.com/product/attenuators-cab-sims/rockcrusher-recording/

But The Rockcrusher Warning below, has me freaked out. Can anyone tell me if it's ok to use or not? I have already read this content, ...

"As the schematic indicates vintage Sunn tube amps came with OTs that have 4, 8, and 16 ohm taps, and the amps came with the jacks either factory wired for 8 ohm and 4 ohm OR 16 ohm and 8 ohm, and its easy (as well as not uncommon) to switch them back and forth.

So while the schematic you posted shows the 8 & 4 configuration, you should make sure that it is indeed factory wired for 8 and 4 ohm operation or that no one has performed any output tap surgery to suit their personal needs over the past 45 years.


The problem with running the amp on a variac is that you need to have a variac that can meet the current requirements for the amp, and these are as expensive or more expensive than doing the cap work unless you already have a 5 amp variac?

The other thing to consider is that there are other voltages in the amp besides the B+ voltage, and if you are going to play around with the AC supply with a variac, then it will affect these voltages too. The bias voltage, the heater voltage.....all of these will change if you change the AC supply, but they won't change linearly....in other words if you change the AC supply by 5 volts, it doesn't mean than the DC voltages in the amp will change by the same amount, and the AC voltages like the heater also won't change in proportion necessarily. The bias would also have to be readjusted to run the amp at whatever lower voltage you plan to run it at, and once that is done you can never run it at a higher AC supply without readjusting the bias.

It is much easier to go with series connected caps for the first two filter stages in the amp and get 700v rating, use a 500v cap for the third section, and a 450v cap for the last section. The can caps are stressed in these amps and discrete caps are much cheaper anyway than cans these days. Another possibility you might consider would be the cap boards the Triode sells. Personally on the Sunn bass amps, I like using higher filtration in the plate and screen supplies, which are the first two stages. The bass tightens up and the hum goes down....though if you decide to do this using a solid state rectifier is mandatory if you go over 60uF filtering on the first cap stage.
I don't know what photos you are refering to, but my two 200S heads have 2 speaker out jacks, one marked for an 8 ohm load and the other marked for a 4 ohm load.

Your 4 ohm cabinet combination will work fine!

With the 3-prong plug, the "death cap" should have been disconnected, leaving nothing for the polarity switch to do, so it having no effect is a good thing. The speaker cabinet having a flat response has nothing directly to do with volume. With a flat response, you won't get notes in one range being louder or softer than notes in another range, as can sometimes happen.

I had an issue on one of my Sunn heads due to the input jacks not being properly grounded. Sunn saved a little bit of wire by letting the chassis be the ground instead of wiring the jacks. I ran some wire to a convenient ground, and solved it. Your issue might be related. Standard warnings apply: don't open up the amp if you aren't experienced with this kind of work, lethal voltages can be present inside, even with the amp unplugged, and so on."

My 200s cab is loaded with two JBL D140F speakers

Here is the Warning From Rivera ...

WARNINGS! PLEASE READ BEFORE USING!
YOU MUST HAVE A LOAD OF THE PROPER IMPEDANCE CONNECTED TO THE SPEAKER OUTPUTS OF THE
ROCKCRUSHER WHEN OPERATING IN THE BYPASS POSITION! IF NOT, YOUR AMPLIFIER WILL POTENTIALLY
SEE
AN OPEN LOAD CONDITION, WHICH MAY RESULT IN SEVERE DAMAGE TO YOUR AMPLIFI
ER!
YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT THE IMPEDANCE OF THE AMPLIFIER?S SPEAKER OUTPUT MATCHES THE
SETTINGS ON THE ROCKCRUSHER (8 OR 16 OHM), AND THAT THE SPEAKER(S) CONNECTED TO THE
ROCKCRUSHER IS OF THE SAME IMPEDANCE. IF MULTIPLE SPEAKERS ARE CONNECTED
(ROCKCRUSHER
SPEAKER OUTPUT JACKS ARE IN PARALLEL), THEIR COMBINED LOAD IMPEDANCE MUST MATCH THE
SETTINGS
ON THE AMPLIFIER AND ON THE ROCKCRUSHER. AN IMPEDANCE MISMATCH CAN POTENTIALLY
RESULT IN
DAMAGE TO YOUR AMPLIFIER, AND EXCESSIVE HEATING TO THE ROCKCR
USHER INTERNA
L
COMPONENTS. DO
NOT USE THE ROCKCRUSHER ON AMPLIFIERS THAT ARE HARDWIRED FOR 2 OR 4 OHMS,
OR DO NOT HAVE 8 OR
16 OHM OUTPUT IMPEDANCE CAPABILITY. DO NOT USE THE ROCKCRUSHER WITH
ANY SPEAKER LOAD LOWER
THAN 8 OHMS IMPEDANCE.
ON THE BACK OF T
HE ROCKCRUSHER, YOU MUST USE THE SPEAKER JACK #1, FIRST.
YOU MAY NOT EXCEED THE 120W RMS POWER RATING OF THE ROCKCRUSHER.
DO NOT COVER THE TOP OR BOTTOM OF THE ROCKCRUSHER, AS PROPER VENTILATION IS REQUIRED TO
DISSIPATE THE POTENTIAL HEAT GENERATED.
DO N
OT EXPOSE THE ROCKCRUSHER TO ANY MOISTURE OF ANY SORT, AS A POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL
SHOCK HAZARD OR DAMAGE TO THE ROCKCRUSHER MAY BE POSSIBLE.
EXCESSIVE USE OF YOUR AMPLIFIER?S OUTPUT POWER WILL PLACE THERMAL STRESS ON THE OUTPUT
TUBES
AND THEIR ASSOCIATED C
OMPONENTS, AS WELL AS ON THE OUTPUT TRANSFORMER, AND MAY
RESULT IN
DAMAGE TO YOUR AMPLIFIER. OLDER VINTAGE AMPLIFIERS MAY HAVE CRITICAL COMPONENTS
WHICH HAVE
DETERIORATED, SUCH AS COUPLING AND FILTER CAPACITORS, WIRING INSULATION, TUBE
SOCKETS, GRID
RESIST
ORS, AND THE INSULATION PROPERTIES OF THE OUTPUT TRANSFORMER WINDINGS.
THESE
COMPONENTS MAY BE EXCESSIVELY STRESSED WHEN SUSTAINING HIGH POWER LEVELS OVER A
PERIOD OF
TIME AND MAY FAIL. ASIAN
-
AND EASTERN EUROPEAN
-
BUILT AMPLIFIERS ARE FOR THE MOST
PART
NO
TORIOUS FOR POOR QUALITY COMPONENTS, AND SUCH COMPONENTS MAY EASILY FAIL IF
STRESSED.
PLEASE CHECK THE CONDITION OF YOUR OUTPUT TUBES, AND REPLACE THEM IF THEY ARE OLD OR
FRAGILE
BEFORE USING THE AMPLIFIER AT HIGH POWER LEVELS WITH THE ROCKCRUSHER.
WEAK AND
OLD
OUTPUT TUBES ARE THE LINK THAT CAN EASILY BREAK WHEN STRESSED. IF THERE IS OUTPUT TUBE
FAILURE,
OTHER ANCILLARY COMPONENTS MAY BE DAMAGED AS WELL.
BY RESPECTING THE CORRECT USE OF THE ROCKCRUSHER, YOU WILL AVOID POTENTIAL DAMAGE TO
YOUR
AMPLIFIER AS WELL AS THE ROCKCRUSHER.

ROCKCRUSHER IS NOT INTENDED FOR USE WITH SOLID STATE AMPLIFIERS THAT USE CURRENT FEEDBACK
AND AN UNGROUNDED OUTPUT. AS THE LINE OUTPUT GROUND IS DIRECTLY CONNECTED
TO THE
AMPLIFIER INPUT GROUND, OSCILLATION WILL O
CCUR WITH POTENTIAL DAMAGE TO THE
AMPLIFIER. IT
IS ALSO NOT INTENDED FOR USE WITH CLASS D OR PWM AMPLIFIERS.
RIVERA AMPLIFICATION IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR AMPLIFIER THAT MAY
OCCUR
THROUGH ANY USE OF THE ROCKCRUSHER

Thank You for any help and please forgive my inabilty to fully comprehend this.
12
Q & A / Re: Model 14 speakers
« Last post by Janisdooms on August 15, 2024, 02:47:32 am »
I'm late to the party but guitar, bass, PA, pretty much anything. They rule!
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Q & A / Re: Sunn Model 14 Speakers and could they be used as a guitar cab?
« Last post by Janisdooms on August 15, 2024, 02:45:22 am »
The Model 14s came stock with a Sunn Model 145 15", a Sunn Model 014 10", and a Foster 025N30 4"x10" horn. Yours sounds like it's been through hell and I'd suggest getting it fixed if you haven't already.
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Q & A / Re: Sunn Model 14 Speakers and could they be used as a guitar cab?
« Last post by Janisdooms on August 15, 2024, 02:43:54 am »
The Model 14 is incredible! I have one of my own I picked up for $50. They work great for guitar, bass, pretty much anything. I'd suggest using the combined input to get the most out of it! Should be 125 watts RMS at 8 ohms total :)
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Q & A / Re: The Sunn Catalog Thread
« Last post by Janisdooms on August 15, 2024, 02:06:23 am »
I know this is an old thread and this is a longshot, but would you happen to have the price lost for 1983/1984... I have an Enforcer 2x12 combo from that era, an Enforcer 4x12 (412B), and a Model 14... the Model 14 was $629 back then, I know that much. I'd also love to know the prices for the Stagemaster series! Also if you could track down a Model 14 schematic or owner's manual I would be forever grateful. Thank you so much for this 🙏
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$2400 Model-T6 (130 W tube amplifier for bass / synthesizer) ? FOR SALE

This amplifier is truly unique, as it is a totally rebuilt old Sunn head, only leaving the original transformers and a few of the user controls as original components. All new wiring, tube sockets, high quality components, custom design based on the Model-T but with signal routing improvement, power supply noise reduction, and an expanded 6-position MID-FREQ whereas the original Model-T only had 3 frequencies. It comes with a 30 day guarantee, and a 9-page manual that includes: instructions; photos; specs, block diagram, schematic with test points.

Based on Sunn Model-T (2nd gen.) with updated features and improvements

You can see and hear a demo on YT at: https://youtu.be/SH79XUx5GkM

I have this amp currently on consignment at Centaur Guitar on NE Sandy Blvd. in Portland, Oregon.

HIGHLIGHTS:
? Original Sunn 1200s chassis converted to improved and feature updated Model-T design
? 130 Watts, 4 Ω and 8 Ω outputs
? Vacuum Tubes: (3x) 12AX7, (4x) 6550 tubes
? Point-to-point wired using no printed circuit boards
? 6-position mid-range frequency select, switch
? Tone shaping prior to gain circuit provides improved and enhancing dynamic and tonal response of both clean and overdrive settings
? Bass guitar and keyboard/Synth inputs ? Synth input includes high-pass 57 Hz filter to help reduce subsonic frequencies
? New components, including terminal strips, wiring, tube sockets, jacks, etc. (1200s original transformers, choke, knobs)
? Dedicated DC filament supply for pre-amp tubes to eliminate hum induced through pre-amp tubes stages
? Star-ground return paths which reduces ground-current induced noise
? Solid-state rectifier diodes for higher power output and improved reliability
? Adjustable bias and hum-balance accessible without removing chassis from case
? Comprehensive 9-page user manual including System Overview, Bias, User Instructions, many photos, aerial overview of major components, Specifications, Block Diagram, Schematic with test points

SUMMARY:
This is a rare and unique vacuum tube bass amplifier primarily based on the Sunn Model-T, inside of a late 60s Sunn 1200s chassis. Hand-built by myself, a hardware engineer with 30 years experience, including 20 years servicing vintage tube amps and a vast array of pro-audio equipment. It features point-to-point wiring, new components* (see section below), bass (instrument) and keyboard/synthesizer (line level) inputs, a 6-position mid-freq tone select switch that is road worthy and great for studio recording due to the exceptionally low noise floor provided by star ground wiring and DC filaments for the pre-amp stages. It also has the signal path rerouted from the original Model-T to establish the tone circuit prior to the first gain (drive) stage, which greatly improves dynamic and tonal
characteristics for both clean and overdrive signals.

COMPONENTS, WIRING, etc.:
New, high quality components include jacks, tube sockets, resistors, capacitors, inductor (for tone circuit), terminal strips, and wiring. The only original components from the 1200s are the main and output transformers, PS choke, switches, knobs, and some of the potentiometers.

INPUTS:
Inputs for both bass guitar and keyboard / synth (line level). The lower ?Synth? input provides a high-pass cutoff of around 57 Hz.

SPEAKER OUTPUTS:
130 Watts RMS
4 Ω and 8 Ω speaker outputs. Note there is a 16 Ω tap from the output transformer (original to the 1200s) that is unconnected--however this can be connected to one of the two output jacks that are currently connected to the 4 Ω and 8 Ω taps.

LINE OUTPUT: The Line Out is a 1/4 inch jack. The signal is derived from the speaker output (attenuated to line level), and has a level control.

TONE CIRCUIT:
A 6-position switch adds 3 more frequencies to the mid-range tone stage, allowing for a much more versatile tonal characteristic than the 3-position switch of the original Model-T design and the majority of bass amplifiers in existence.

POWER SUPPLY (Low-noise design):
DC filaments for the pre-amp stages, star-ground wiring, and high quality capacitors throughout the power supply provide exceptionally low noise throughout. Solid-state rectifier diodes maximize the available output power and headroom, reduces the long-term maintenance cost, and increases reliability.

BIAS and HUM-BALANCE:
Bias and hum-balance accessible from the top side of chassis without having to remove the chassis from the case.

TESTED:
I have played dozens of gigs with this amplifier and it has been reliable, sounds beautiful, and has a very diverse range of tone for a wide variety of bass guitars and styles. I have also used it for recorded sessions and sounds wonderful.

DOCUMENTATION:
I created a 9-page manual, including description, photos, mid-range 6-position frequency response chart, specifications, block diagram, and the full schematic which has AC and DC voltages as test points.

GUARANTEE:
This amp is sold with no refunds. However, I will guarantee this amplifier for a full 30 days from sale, by providing technical support (repairs) as long as the amplifier is matched to either an 8 ohm or 4 ohm speaker load. Vacuum tubes and the transformers are not covered. Only defects of the amplifier not brought on by external problems are covered. For example, I will not cover this 30 day warranty for things such as wrong speaker impedance, amplifier being dropped, cable being pulled hard while plugged in (accidental tripping on guitar cable), wrong speaker cable type used, spills of any liquid, food, or foreign substances into the amplifier. Excess humidity (such as a wet / damp garage, basement, or practice space that has humidity issues). Animal or insect contamination of any kind.

NO TRADES.

WHERE TO CHECK OUT THE AMP:
You are welcome to come check out my amplifier on consignment at Centaur Guitar (on NE Sandy Blvd.)
Centaur Guitar hours of operation are:
Sun - Mon..... Closed
Tues - Fri...... 11 AM?7 PM
Saturday........ 11 AM?5 PM
17
Q & A / Re: 100s hum troubleshooting
« Last post by loudthud on June 14, 2024, 10:36:55 pm »
OK, I see where you said the scope pic was across the speaker, but is the 50mV per div accurate taking into account any probe (x10) attenuation ?
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Q & A / Re: 100s hum troubleshooting
« Last post by loudthud on June 13, 2024, 08:36:48 pm »
You never said where the scope was connected when you took the picture above. I see what looks like random noise spikes. Is that 50mV per division on channel 1 across the speaker ? Do you have an 8 Ohm dummy load ?

There is always going to be some hum. Where is the red wire with the yellow stripe grounded in relation to where all the filter caps are grounded ?
19
Q & A / Re: 100s hum troubleshooting
« Last post by samcr on June 13, 2024, 07:32:57 pm »
Thanks for that detailed reply. A few things I can address right now, and a few I will need to go off and test/try.

Quote
most hum in an amp is 100Hz
Yep, we gotta know what we're chasing. From the picture we see on the oscilloscope with divisions on the x axis being 5ms, its pretty much 4 divisions per cycle. 20ms -> 1000/20 = 50hz.

Quote
diode check with power off
When I did this the other day I was getting with the DMM multimeter about 0.595v voltage drop and OL the reverse  direction, so functionally they seem correct

Quote
Voltages around the 6AN8 are somewhat off,
This is something i'll need to take another look at this weekend when I'll have the chance to go over things again

Quote
"Black Cat" capacitors that connect...
Yeah I was thinking it might be these but I replaced with a modern 0.1uf 600v rated cap and it made no difference. The resistance of the 47k and the voltage across 100k i'll have to go back and check.

Quote
install a new or fresh one if you have it
I have a backup and noticed no difference in hum between the two of them.

Quote
Adjust the value of the 680 Ohm resistor (between 470 and 1K) connected to pin 9 to obtain the 80V
This is something I will get to if the above does not reveal any issues.
20
Q & A / Re: 100s hum troubleshooting
« Last post by loudthud on June 13, 2024, 11:50:55 am »
First a WARNING: This amp and ones like it contain Voltages that are lethal and can cause injury or DEATH. If you do not have the training and experience working with dangerous Voltages, it is strongly suggested that you refer service to a qualified technician.

50Hz hum can only come from a couple of places, most hum in an amp is 100Hz. Check that each side of the 6.3VAC heater Voltage measures about 3.15VAC to ground. Next, check the two diodes on the rectifier socket with a DVM set to diode check with power off and caps discharged. If one is bad, this could cause 50Hz hum. Most 100Hz hum you find in the 6AN8 and KT88 circuits will cancel itself out in the Output Transformer. A matched pair of KT88 helps in this effort.

The Hot bias could cause some 100Hz hum. Check that the red wire from the output transformer connects to the power supply 'A' node. Some techs connect it to the Standby switch side of the choke like most Fender amps. This too can cause hum, but usually 100Hz. Check that you have high Voltage to pins 3 and 4 of the KT88s.

Looking a little closer at the Voltage readings you took, it would seem the Voltages around the 6AN8 are somewhat off, which is not unusual for one of these amps. The true test is to measure the power output of the amp into a dummy load. Bias to the KT88s looks like it is on the hot side, I would expect the bias Voltage (pin 5) to be more negative. Note that your meter may load down the Voltage if you measure right at pin 5. Better to measure at the bias adjust pot. Check that the plate structure (large metal pieces inside the tubes nearest the glass) of the KT88s are not glowing red (called red plating). This indicates the tubes are drawing too much current (a potential cause of 100Hz hum).

The first thing to check in the 6AN8 circuit is the resistance of the two 47K resistors connected to pins 1 and 3. These are carbon composition resistors which can drift in value with age. If they differ by more than about 5%, I would replace them. If the Voltage ACROSS one of them is off by say 20V, the Voltage ACROSS the other should be off by the same amount. Voltages to ground would be off, but in the opposite directions. Another problem which can effect that circuit is leakage of the two "Black Cat" capacitors that connect from the 47Ks to pin 5 of the KT88s. Check for Voltage ACROSS the two 100K resistors (should be near zero). You can take these measurements with the KT88s removed from the amp for safety. Use extreme caution and don't let the probe slip and short to ground.

6AN8s are getting hard to find, install a new or fresh one if you have it. If these and other components checkout, I would adjust the value of the 680 Ohm resistor (between 470 and 1K) connected to pin 9 to obtain the 80V on pin 3. Note the 75V indicated on the schematic for pin 9 is an error, Voltage should be more like 0.5V but depends on the tube. Adjusting the 680 Ohm should get the amp firing on all cylinders with full power output after a bias adjustment to the KT88s.
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