Author Topic: Dymos  (Read 7427 times)

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Offline george

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Dymos
« on: December 13, 2010, 12:50:48 am »
Can anyone give me the dimensions of the Dymos combo amp? Also would like any info on the reverb tank.

Offline HRobert

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2010, 03:09:28 am »
George,

Did you buy the Dymos chassis that was on eBay?  

If you can, get a schematic for the amp and get the specs for the output and input from the amp to the reverb tank.  Then, contact Cal at Accutronics  -http://www.accutronicsreverb.com   He might be able to look up the specs for that reverb tank for you.  I know he did that for me with my Sentura II head.  I'm also going to do the same thing with a Solos II chassis that I bought.

Here's another thought, they also carry the Belton Digital Reverbs.  I guess some can be direct replacements for the spring units, others have to have a voltage buss for operation.

Rob
« Last Edit: December 13, 2010, 10:07:37 am by HRobert »

Offline CLD

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2010, 06:47:16 am »
According to the 1969 catalog, the Dymos is 24.75" tall, 26.5" wide, and 11.5" deep. No weight given.
Sunn since June 1971!
1971 Sorado, 2000S, Coliseum Bass, Coliseum Lead
1970 200S; 1974 Coliseum 880

Offline george

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2010, 10:49:30 am »
Yup, bought the one on ePay. It looks like the reverb pan was sold in another auction. Thanks for the dimensions - now to figure what drivers to use? It looks like Musican's Friend has Celestion Rockets for $40/ea. I now have three Sunn cabinet projects to build - Concert Lead, Sonaro and Dymos.

Offline HRobert

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2010, 11:47:43 am »
Yup, bought the one on ePay. It looks like the reverb pan was sold in another auction. Thanks for the dimensions - now to figure what drivers to use? It looks like Musican's Friend has Celestion Rockets for $40/ea. I now have three Sunn cabinet projects to build - Concert Lead, Sonaro and Dymos.

Goerge,

I almost bid on the Dymos myself, but I still have my Solos II project to get off the ground.  I need to get a reverb for my amp also.  I'm going to try to re-build the Solos as a piggyback head - except instead of a top mount in the box like a Fender or Carvin (which would be the easy route), I want to build it so it looks like a Sunn tube amp with the chassis mounted on the bottom.  Only thing in the way is the PT....it hangs down into the speaker box like all other combo amps, so it will have to be moved to the top of the chassis.  I think that a 1/8" piece of aluminum plate could be mounted to the top of the chassis and the transformer mounted to that.  I'll have to wait and see what my electronics guru has to say about the plan.

Offline george

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2010, 05:17:27 pm »
I found a 3 spring reverb tank for a Concert lead for $16 - shouldn't be an issue for this project since I have more flexability when it comes to mounting schemes.

As far as mounting your Solos II like a tube amp- is the front panel slanted like a Sunn tube chassis. Only bring this up since I find it hard to see the flat front panels when you're on a stage with lighting going - just my $.02.

Offline HRobert

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2010, 05:27:23 pm »
I found a 3 spring reverb tank for a Concert lead for $16 - shouldn't be an issue for this project since I have more flexability when it comes to mounting schemes.

As far as mounting your Solos II like a tube amp- is the front panel slanted like a Sunn tube chassis. Only bring this up since I find it hard to see the flat front panels when you're on a stage with lighting going - just my $.02.

George.

Yes, the control panel is slanted like the Sunn piggyback heads....that's one of the reasons I had the idea in the first place.  The speaker baffle for the Solos fit up under the bottom lip of the control panel. In order for the bottom of the control face plate to clear the bottom of the box, I may have to manufacture a couple of thin shims so that the chassis can be recessed back a little like the tube heads.  Have to get the head working first.  It powers up and then after about 30 -40 seconds...shuts down.
« Last Edit: December 14, 2010, 01:06:35 pm by HRobert »

Offline HRobert

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2010, 05:32:33 pm »
I found a 3 spring reverb tank for a Concert lead for $16 - shouldn't be an issue for this project since I have more flexability when it comes to mounting schemes.

Check the reverb input and output mili-voltage for your particular amp.  Not every reverb tank will work with just any amp.  Go to the Accutronics web site and look under the ordering information to see what i mean.  For instance; a Model 4 reverb tank for a Fender won't necessarily work if plugged into the circuitry of a Sunn...even if the Sunn uses a Model 4 type ( old Gibbs / Hammond reverb tank) that looks the same.

Offline shibbz

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2010, 09:20:08 pm »
Heh, I almost bid on that as well.
Good luck restoring it!  :-D

Offline Johnny Guitar

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2010, 10:19:45 pm »
Hey Rob,
Which tank did your Sentura need?
Johnny G.

Offline george

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2010, 01:50:59 pm »
Quote
Check the reverb input and output mili-voltage for your particular amp.  Not every reverb tank will work with just any amp.  Go to the Accutronics web site and look under the ordering information to see what i mean.  For instance; a Model 4 reverb tank for a Fender won't necessarily work if plugged into the circuitry of a Sunn...even if the Sunn uses a Model 4 type ( old Gibbs / Hammond reverb tank) that looks the same.

That reminds me to ask - anyone have a dymos tank that they can measure the DC resistance of the input and output ports? By any chance did someone here win the one on ePay?

It will save me the effort of trying to "match" an off the shelf unit to the circuit impedances.

Offline HRobert

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2010, 04:04:19 pm »
Hey Rob,
Which tank did your Sentura need?
Johnny G.
For the Sunn Sentura II, the Accutronics Reverb Tank was:  #004-AB3A1A-000.

The code for this tank breaks down as this;

004 = Model 4 Reverb Tank - 4 Spring counter wound, in two strands.

A    = 8 Ohm impedence input

B    = 2250 Ohm impedence output

3    = Reverb Delay, Long, 2.75 - 4.0 seconds

A    =  Input and Output jacks both grounded

1    =  No locking device

A    = Horizontal mount - open side of chassis up.

I'm not sure, but I'll bet that all or most of Conrad's Tube amps with the reverb tank mounted in the top of the head are the same. I would contact Conrad and ask.  It might also depend on whether the amp had a SS reverb section - like the Sentura, or if it had a tube preamp section.

Rob
« Last Edit: December 15, 2010, 06:09:05 am by HRobert »

Offline Johnny Guitar

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2010, 09:13:08 pm »
Thanks Rob!  I'll add the info to my file.  I'm sure I will need a tank for one of my tube amps sometime.
Johnny G.

Offline HRobert

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Re: Dymos
« Reply #13 on: December 15, 2010, 05:21:28 am »
Thanks Rob!  I'll add the info to my file.  I'm sure I will need a tank for one of my tube amps sometime.
Johnny G.

Like I said in a previous post, not every reverb tank will work with any amp....that's why Accutronics makes a wide variety of input/output specs etc.  It's best to check the schematic for your amp top see the voltage and resistance requirements.  If you have any doubts, you can send a copy of the schematic to Cal at Accutronics and he can advise you as to which reverb tank would be best.