1" inside diameter cup for mounting a 1/4" phone jack in the cabinet

[Watson]

See http://www.myknobs.com/haf15320715.html

[Watson]

I received these today and I wasn't happy with them.  Their diameter and thickness are right on but unlike the original jack dish, these are steep walled and nickel plated. If I didn't have the originals I might use these but a better match must be out there somewhere.

[madaradio]

I think this is what you're looking for:

http://www.guitar-parts.com/catalog/jack-cup-speaker-cabinet-0

member HRobert hooked me up with the link a while back.  Thanks again!

[Watson]

Excellent Madaradio! Thank you mcuh!

[loudthud]

The ones Madradio linked are just the ones used in Fender cabinets. They barely work in a Fender cabinet, you need a special SwitchCraft jack with extra long threads. The won't work on a Sunn cabinet because the back panel is 3/4 inch thick, not 1/2 inch like a Fender cabinet.

[madaradio]

humm....  sorry!  should have re read the pm hrobert sent me.  he said the same thing.

hope he doesnt mind, but here's what he passed on to me.

The cups are suppose to be installed by drilling a 7/8" hole with a spade bit and then bolting the cups back to back with the 1/4" jack so the two edge flange skirts clamp the wood of the back of the cabinet between them.  However, the problem is that if you're using approximately 3/4" plywood, a 1/4" jack isn't long enough.

I used 13mm birch plywood for the cabs and I solved the problem this way:

The jacks - when placed back-to-back - have a space that is approximately 7mm
( milimeters ) between the inside faces of the flanges.   I decided where I wanted to locate the jack and drilled a 1/8" center pilot hole.  Then starting with the inside of the back - using the pilot hole as the guide - I used a 1-1/4" wood boring bit ( spade bit ) and drilled to a depth of 5mm.  I turned the back over and from the other side - again using the pilot hole as a guide, and this time a 7/8" spade bit -  I finished drilling the hole through the back.

I ran into one other problem.  The sides of the "cup" are not 90 degrees to the flanges, but kind of angle inward to the hole for the 1/4" jack. The bottom is more narrow and I had a problem with a metal part of the 1/4' female jack just touching and shorting our the signal.  I went to the hardware store and bought some 1/16" thick rubber grommets with a hole big enough to fit over the threads of the 1/4" jack and narrow enough to fit inside the cup. ( they look like little black rubber washers).  this gave me enough clearance so the jack didn't make contact with the metal jack cup, and yet still gave me enough threads so that I could get the lock nut on the jack.  I used a socket wrench to then tighten up the jacks.