Recent Posts

81

Q & A / Re: Facing facts

« Last post by Soundmasterg on October 31, 2023, 08:03:54 pm »

I feel where you're at Isaac. I've downsized to my 2000S head and cab and the 1x15 that I built for myself and that is it for bass. I'd likely part with the 1x15 if someone offered my close to what it is worth. In my heart of hearts I'd like to get your 200S head and cab if you were going to let them go, but realistically I have no need for those either. The 2000S is more than enough power for me and the 200S is duplicating some of that range. That said, I think the 200S cabinet sounds better than the 2000S cabinet....a little more balanced.

Hope when you are trying to sell that you can get what you want for them all!

Greg

82

Q & A / Facing facts

« Last post by Isaac on October 20, 2023, 11:12:52 am »

Time for me to face some uncomfortable facts.

I'm not getting any younger. Big, heavy cabinets are getting to be too much to handle. Same with amps.

I'm not likely to be playing guitar in any bands again. (Bass is all I play these days.)

When I play bass, I usually go straight to the PA.

I need more space in my house.

What all this comes down to is that I expect to be getting rid of some of my larger and heavier Sunn gear. A 200S cabinet, a Sceptre cabinet, a Model 215, two 410S cabs. Probably a Model 410H and the open-backed 2x12 that came with the Solarus after they split the combo into a head and cab. A few heads, but I think I'll make sure they work first.

I plan on keeping my 200S amp and one cab. Maybe the Sentura II head.

I'll be sad to see them go, but they take up so much room, and I never gig with them anymore.

83

Q & A / Re: Solarus - model changes

« Last post by Isaac on October 13, 2023, 09:55:09 am »

The first models did not have the mid boost switch. That was added later. A useful function, IMO. Too bad it wasn't foot switchable.

All of the models have the same transformer, and those have 4, 8 and 16 ohm taps. As loudthud said, it's not difficult to switch between them.

84

Q & A / Re: Solarus - model changes

« Last post by loudthud on October 12, 2023, 03:30:14 am »

Open up the Catalog thread and use the text search function (control f) to search for Solarus. Might not work on a Mac but OK on Windows and Chrome Book. There is a thread here that discusses how to change the output impedance between 4/8 and 8/16. You need to be handy with a soldering iron to move some wires around.

Check this thread: https://forum.sunnstillshines.online/index.php?topic=4844.msg18880#msg18880

85

General Discussion / SUNN 1000S

« Last post by Sunn_Soaked on October 11, 2023, 09:52:46 pm »

Picked up a ratty 1000s in a trade, definitely needs a couple of tubes and possibly a recap. Otherwise it's in decent condition: tolex cleans up nicely, buttons work, grille cloth is intact, chassis has a few rust spots but can be worked over, transformers are definitely original and hopefully work. I've got all the knobs and other stuff. In the meantime I'm going to send the chassis off to a tech to diagnose and make any needed repairs while I clean/touchup the case.

Currently I have a concert lead (silver face) and a Beta Lead with a Sunn 402 cab. How do the 1000s models sound? I've never heard let alone seen a 1000s.

86

Q & A / Solarus - model changes

« Last post by Solarusizer on October 10, 2023, 01:40:44 pm »

Hey Everyone -

I just got a good deal on a backup for my treasured Solarus.. and found some surprises. Firstly there is no mid-boost switch, which is kind of a bummer. But what I was surprised by is that it only has 16 & 8 ohm outs. My other Solarus has 8 & 4ohm outs, which is great because  I run it with a Sceptre 4ohm cab.

I'm hoping someone here might know the details of which design was first, and when those changes were made. Thanks!

87

Q & A / Re: Sunn Beta lead footswitch socket - wiring colours

« Last post by Weaselsneezer78 on September 06, 2023, 05:12:15 am »

I was off the mark a touch then! That's awesome, thanks for the info.

88

Q & A / Re: Sunn Beta lead footswitch socket - wiring colours

« Last post by loudthud on September 04, 2023, 05:57:45 pm »

Looking at the end of the board where the blue and white wires connect, the white wire is the "P" line that goes to the footswitch pin 1. The blue wire is the "S" line that goes to the footswitch pin 3. Counting from the bottom of the board where the blue and white wires connect and white being #1, position 10 is the Reverb line that goes to the footswitch pin 2 and position 11 is the ground that goes to the footswitch pin 4.

89

Q & A / Re: Sunn Beta lead footswitch socket - wiring colours

« Last post by Weaselsneezer78 on September 04, 2023, 05:44:26 am »

Just adding to this thread with some (not so great) shots of the preamp solder positions for context, as I realised my question without these doesn't really equate to much... 

Looking down at the preamp PCB from above at the 15 or so connections, Black wire goes to position 2, White (shielded) splits to positions 5&6, and the blue and white wires go to the last positions down at the bottom. It would be great to know what these colours relate to in terms of reverb, channels A+B, ground, and channels A/B. I'm doing my best to follow the schematics, but a bit lost.

90

Q & A / Sunn Beta lead footswitch socket - wiring colours

« Last post by Weaselsneezer78 on September 02, 2023, 02:59:10 pm »

Hi, hoping you guys can help me again.

I've cracked open my Beta lead to see how a previous owner has wired up a 5 pin DIN socket (pictured). I'm hoping to fashion a footswitch based on previous posts here, but using a DIN socket, or at some point may just replace the DIN for the original 4 pin.

My question - what is the colour coding for the socket wiring? Based on the footswitch schematic I've reasoned -
Black - ground
Blue - both channels (A+B)
White with grey shielding - single channel (AorB)
White no shielding - reverb

Is this correct, or am I completely off the mark?
 
Many thanks in advance.