multi-cap cans

[sky pup]

I'm looking to do a recap job in my 1970 Solarus. I have recapped smaller amps but I've never seen this type of thing before. I heard there is a modern replacement for these cans? I can't even figure out how to open it or pop it out. Any suggestions are appreciated.

[noel]

As always be careful 'cause you could die.  But its very easy to do.  You can hunt around for a new can-cap and pay a lot of money if you want or you could just replace the individual caps.  What I generally do is disconnect the wires from the tabs in the can (leaving the outer-most wires connected...these are the chassis grounds) and just leave the can where it is.  Then its just a matter of finding a clever place to put the new caps in the amp chassis itself.  You'll also have to ground the other side of the new cap.  If you just want to replace the can straight away you'll see that the chassis ground tabs are twisted through a slot in the chassis.  Just untwist them and pull the can out.

[sky pup]

Thanks, noel. Are there any advantages to completely removing the can or does it make no difference to leave it grounded where it sits?

[mckinnon audio]

  Hi there,I always leave them in so the amp looks right cosmetically,otherwise you have a hole to plug in the chassis,good luck,Mel.

[sky pup]

  Hi there,I always leave them in so the amp looks right cosmetically,otherwise you have a hole to plug in the chassis,good luck,Mel.

True, didn't think about that.

Looking at the pic does it look as though someone may have altered the can cap already? It's highlighted near the bottom:

[mckinnon audio]

  Hi there,a little hard to see but the wiring looks a little messy.The resistors look right though,2 - 6800 ohm and 1 - 10Kohm on the can cap.The chassis looks like it's in pretty good shape,good luck,Mel.

[Oli]

Hi,

have U seen this?:

http://www.die-wuestens.de/dindex.htm?/k8.htm

EDBASS found it in the www. Though I have never tried them out, I did not need them yet.... Maybe someone did already use them and can give so info about it.

Greetings

Oli

[loudthud]

A search on ebay for "dynaco capacitor" turns up some interesting choices including small circuit boards that hold series caps and twist locks. Dont forget to look in the ebay stores listings.

[EdBass]

These work great, I've used them and if I'm not mistaken, so has Isaac;
http://store.triodestore.com/sdslabcapboa.html
But it will change (enhance ) the amps performance, most notably in tighter bass response and a slight output increase. It also gives the flexibility of using a SS or tube rectifier.

If you want to go the stock route, with those can caps that Oli posted about, KTL13 should plug right in (I haven't done it myself though, so caveat emptor), provide factory performance characteristics, and also boost the voltage to a safer 550V from the stock 525V, which is probably a little anemic for the amp.*





*The 525V rated can cap has been a subject of debate going back to the original Dynaco Mk III's.

[noel]

Hey all,
I think there have been some cool posts.  Those originals are cool Oli!  Obviously there's a few approaches but I think spending money on an original is kind of silly.  The sunn chassis were pretty big by and large so you've got room to put in the new caps.  Plus I'd be apprehensive about using a vintage cap because if the capacitence is off you've shot yourself in the foot.  The whole idea is to get the amp stock...for me at least.  Anyway, in responce to Ed's question I just leave the caps where they are for cosmetics but also grounds.  Chassis ground is often routed to the lugs on the can cap so its more convenient to use the same wiring scheme (form my experience).

[Isaac]

These work great, I've used them and if I'm not mistaken, so has Isaac;
http://store.triodestore.com/sdslabcapboa.html
But it will change (enhance ) the amps performance, most notably in tighter bass response and a slight output increase. It also gives the flexibility of using a SS or tube rectifier.

If you want to go the stock route, with those can caps that Oli posted about, KTL13 should plug right in (I haven't done it myself though, so caveat emptor), provide factory performance characteristics, and also boost the voltage to a safer 550V from the stock 525V, which is probably a little anemic for the amp.*

*The 525V rated can cap has been a subject of debate going back to the original Dynaco Mk III's.

Yes, I have one in my 200S, and like it very much.